New York city’s East Village – a hive for the helplessly hip, and a den for deliberate debauchery. Witness “Wigstock” in nearby Tompkins Square park. It’s the annual drag race for the city’s cross dressing contingent flagged by the fabulous Hedda Lettuce. But three blocks down in a basement boîte , Lucky Cheng’s has outranked the high hair drama and low bar louche to attract downtown habitués Kate Moss, Matt Dillion and motor mouth Sandra Bernhard.

First the fodder: an Asian-American fusion from China Grill’s (that midtown media power lunch nexus) ex-sous chef. Many have waxed lyrical over Lady Lily’s Chicken, and gongs have clanged over the Pu-Pu Platter, the chef’s daily whimsy.

But the real dessert ain’t on the plate. It comes in 6-inch faux Manolos, big Jersey hair, and a deep baritone ululation. “Emerald” will be your wait person tonight. No less a siren call to lure the asian drag queens from the Upper East side’s perpetually frayed Star Sapphire bar. As the night heats up, shape shifters like Mee-Ling, Miss Pigeon, and Tsunami coolly hold court in this after hours flower drum den.

ELLE Singapore, 1997