Of course there are the glass modernism of Dior, Louis Vuitton, and the whopping number og Comme des Garçons outposts in Ginza. The area is a paen to global moneyed consumption. But my favourite parts are the forgotten spaces that made it special as a hotbed for western modernity during the messy Meji era.

The Shisheido Parlour restaurant is one - a storied joint serves souped up western fare (yōshoku 洋食) since 1902 in a Cole Porter era dining hall. Beef stew and coffee are de rigueuer, both items anathema to a then strictly buddhist tradition.

Bar Lupin tucked behind Jimmy Choo, is another smokey throwback to Ginza as a liberal writers’ enclave during the Taisho era. By far, the Okuna building, a 1930s artifact intact from the war, tops my list. It sits quietly with its warren of rooms and steadfast art deco bricks while the rest of Ginza pops its cork for everyone to see.